Will Stanhope
 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | November 16, 1986 |
| Died | April 23, 2026 (aged 39) British Columbia, Canada |
| Occupation | Rock climber |
| Climbing career | |
| Highest grade | |
| First ascents | The Tom Egan Memorial Route (5.14) |
William Joseph Stanhope[1] (16 November 1986 – 23 April 2026) was a Canadian rock climber and professional rock-climbing guide.[2] He was known for his first ascents on difficult trad climbing routes. Stanhope died in a 2026 climbing accident.
Life and career
[edit]Stanhope was born in 1986[3] and learned to climb in a North Vancouver climbing gym from the age of nine.[4] Before his death he was described as "one of North America's leading trad climbers"[5] and "one of Canada's boldest climbers".[6] Stanhope engaged in free soloing, climbing grades up to 5.12 (7b/+).[7][8] In an interview, he stated that he would free solo routes early in the morning before beginning work as a mountain guide.[4] Stanhope said that he avoided free soloing routes at the limit of his ability and he would climb up only if he thought he could climb down.[4]
Besides free solo climbing, Stanhope was also known for first free ascents of difficult alpine climbs.[4] In 2015, he made the first free ascent of a 5.14 (8c/+) graded traditional climbing route called The Tom Egan Memorial Route on Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos, considered one of the most difficult rock climbs in Canada. Stanhope and his partner, Matt Segal, spent 100 days over four years working on the climb. Their ascent was made into a climbing film, Boys in the Bugs. Despite multiple attempts, the route was never repeated and was wiped out in a 2022 rockfall event.[9][10][11][12] In 2024, Stanhope and Tim Emmett made the first free ascent of a new 5.12+ (7b+/7c) graded route on the south ridge of Mount Combatant.[13] Stanhope climbed with Alex Honnold, who said about him, "he likes scary trad routes ... He's just a real climbing dude, the kind you want to have sitting around the campfire."[9]
He worked as an Association of Canadian Mountain Guides certified guide.[2] Stanhope published stories about his adventures in media such as the Canadian Alpine Journal and American Alpine Journal, and appeared in multiple climbing films.[9][1]
Death
[edit]On 13 April 2026, he fell from Rutabaga, a 5.11a trad climbing route on Stawamus Chief near Squamish, British Columbia. Having sustained a broken foot and skull fracture,[14] he was transported to hospital in stable condition but died on 23 April,[15][2] at the age of 39.[9] After his death, his climbing partner said that they had pushed onwards with the climb despite encountering rain, which made the rock more slippery. He was not wearing a helmet when he fell. She estimated the fall to be at most 10 metres (33 ft), contrary to reports from SAR that he fell around 20 metres (70 ft). He was unconscious for only a brief period of time before she began to lower him. Although she told rescuers that a helicopter evacuation was necessary due to the severity of his injuries and the difficulty of the terrain to approach, it took over four hours for him to be transported to a hospital where he underwent emergency brain surgery.[14]
Controversy
[edit]At the time of his death, Stanhope was facing trial on nine criminal charges, including breaking and entering and sexual assault, for offenses allegedly committed between November 2024 and November 2025. None of the allegations have been proven in court, where he was due to appear later in the year, but a vast amount of the climbing community encourages the public to believe survivors.[16]
Although he was not intoxicated at the time of his death, he had been to rehab multiple times for alcohol addiction. Some of his friends were concerned about his increasing alcohol use and mental health challenges, possibly exacerbated by the death of some of his close friends, including Hayden Kennedy, Marc-André Leclerc, and Michael Gardner.[14][1]
References
[edit]- 1 2 3 "B.C. rock climber Will Stanhope conquered the hardest alpine-crack ascent in the world". The Globe and Mail. 7 May 2026. Retrieved 13 May 2026.
- 1 2 3 McDonald, Liz (24 April 2026). "'The rock was his home', professional climber Will Stanhope dies". Squamish Chief.
- ↑ "Watch Free-Solo of "Europe's Separate Reality" Legoland 5.12". Gripped Magazine. 18 September 2020. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- 1 2 3 4 Grochowski, Sarah (25 April 2026). "Canadian climbing pioneer Will Stanhope dies in Squamish climb". Vancouver Sun. Retrieved 26 April 2026.
- ↑ "Will Stanhope Climbing 5.13R Trad in Sweden". Gripped Magazine. 10 March 2023. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- ↑ Magazine, Explore (12 January 2012). "Top athlete: Will Stanhope – Explore Magazine". Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- ↑ "Will Stanhope's Soulful Free Solo". Outside. 17 July 2012. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- ↑ "Watch Heinz Zak Solo Separate Reality 5.12 in Yosemite". Gripped Magazine. 23 March 2017. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- 1 2 3 4 Pullan, Brandon (24 April 2026). "Will Stanhope Dies After a Climbing Accident in Squamish". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- ↑ Stanhope, Will (13 March 2023). "Will Stanhope Remembers the Bugaboo Dream Route That Fell Off". Climbing. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- ↑ "One of Canada's Hardest Rock Climbs is Gone Forever". Gripped Magazine. 23 December 2022. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- ↑ "Friendship and Failure on the World's Hardest Alpine Free Climb". Adventure. 24 October 2016. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- ↑ "First Ascent of a 4,500-Foot 5.12+ in B.C. – Smoke and Mirrors". Gripped Magazine. 6 February 2025. Retrieved 25 April 2026.
- 1 2 3 Clarke, Owen (5 May 2026). ""We Missed Our Signs:" Partner Details Will Stanhope's Fatal Fall on the Stawamus Chief". Climbing. Retrieved 8 May 2026.
- ↑ Kelly, Alanna (25 April 2026). "Professional climber dies after 20 metre fall from Stawamus Chief in Squamish". CBC. Retrieved 26 April 2026.
- ↑ "Will Stanhope Dies Climbing, Was Due in Court for Sexual Assault". Terra Incognita Media. 27 April 2026. Retrieved 1 June 2026.
